Two Wheels in Paradise:
The Essential Guide to Riding Motorcycles in the Dominican Republic
By Robert Cooper and Ed Denzler
Las Galeras, the End of the Road
In a car everything you see is just more TV. You’re a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You’re completely in contact with it all. You’re in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.
- Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
*Introduction*
Ocean Vista near Gaspar Hernandez
The scene repeats itself so often, it’s become predictable.
We watch the wide-eyed attendant reverently squirt fuel into our Suzuki V-Strom 650s (aka Wee Strom), and a car adorned with a rental company sticker pulls up next to us. The window lowers, and the driver, obviously a tourist, speaks English.
“Nice bike. What is it?”
“Thanks. A V-Strom 650.” We go back to watching the attendant.
“I ride back home. I have a Warpspeed 1200.”
“Really? Nice bike. Bet you love it.”
“Sure do. You from here or from the states?”
“Here. From Jarabacoa, in the mountains. We do motorcycle tours of the country on these.”
“Wow. Cool.”
Pregnant silence with jealous overtones…
“And you’re not scared of riding here? I mean, no offense, but are you guys nuts? These folks are crazy drivers; the traffic is insane! I’ve been here a week. It’s beautiful, but I’ve never seen anything like it back home. I’d be scared to death…no way…”
“No, not really, you just have to know a few things…”
And so it goes.
Through the eyes of over 60 collective years of riding experience on all sorts of motorcycles in a variety of locales, we know the Dominican Republic is one of the most rewarding places on the planet that can be explored on two wheels. Occupying 2/3 of the historic Caribbean island of Hispaniola and known as the birthplace of the Western world, the Dominican Republic is best known for its beaches, baseball and cigars. But few locations on the planet offer the near sensory-overload experience of raw, physical beach-to-mountain-to-desert geographical beauty, tropical climate, lush green foliage, family-oriented culture, and such happy and accommodating people with their constant beehive of activity. Dominican food is healthy as well as savory, the rum, beer, coffee and baseball a source of tremendous national pride, and the rhythmic music and dance alluring. It’s a true Rider’s Paradise in every dimension. Christopher Columbus discovered this amazing place in 1492. And now, 500 years later, the awesome treasures of the Dominican Republic are being discovered by adventurous motorcycle riders from all around the world.
We certainly understand why the tourist in the above play-it-again scene would make the comments he does. And we also understand why that opinion would be shared by many who come to the DR for a short time, having just left a driving and riding culture that evolved in a very different manner. They rarely get to experience the real Dominican Republic outside the walls and gates of an all-inclusive beach resort where 85% of tourists nest. After all, we too were once first time visitors to the DR, so we have lived that initial experience and shared those gut reactions. Our tourists’ observations are generally based on the somewhat chaotic traffic patterns in the largest and most complex cities in the DR, Santo Domingo, Santiago and Puerto Plata. If we were dropped into the middle of New York City at rush hour on a motorcycle for the first time and had never experienced the calm wonders of upstate New York, our perception might be the same of the whole United States.
Having visited the country repeatedly for over 20 years and now living and working in Paradise full time, we have developed a different perspective of riding in the Dominican Republic. Our stable of V-Stroms has over 30,000 accident-free miles riding all over the country on all kinds of roads and in all sorts of conditions. And we’ve learned a few things that can not only enhance the enjoyment of riding motorcycles in this incredible place, but keep a rider safe and accident free. Safety is the single most important aspect of the sport of motorcycle riding…or it should be.
*Rules of the Road: There IS a Pattern to the Chaos*
Riding a motorcycle on today’s highways, you have to ride in a very defensive manner. You have to be a good rider and you have to have both hands and both feet on the controls at all times.
- Evel Knievel
The “Moca Pickle”: Never Again!
Simply stated, roads are used differently in the DR than here in the States. Your home motorcycle riding environment exists no more. You are a visitor in a highly evolved system and there are certain expectations of you simply because you are on a motorcycle within that structure. Understanding how to integrate within that developed traffic pattern is the key to your riding safety in the DR. Ready to surf the edge of chaos?
The Pattern
People commonly utilize the side of the road to get to where they need to go: walking, riding their horse, riding their motos, pushing a cart, etc. Here the motos use the right-most part of the road with pedestrians and others using the shoulder. Of course cars, work trucks, and buses also use the road. But here is the key to the system: the slower you move along the road, the more to the right you should be. And this is understood by everyone that is using the road.
The Vehicles
Motorcycles: The DR is a motorcycle-centric culture. There are 2.1 million registered vehicles in the Dominican Republic, and 1.3 million of them are motorcycles, the ever-present main form of transportation in the DR. To put those 1.3 million motorcycles into perspective, they would be the equivalent of 44 million motorcycles in the U.S. But there are only 6.3 million registered motorcycles in the US. So, population being equal, there are nearly 7 TIMES more motorcycles in the Dominican Republic than the U.S.!
Morning Bread Deliver by Moto
Moving along at 40 mph, 95+% of those motos are 50-150cc four- (and, yes, those dirty two-) stroke “motos.” The industrious utilization of motos is staggering, almost beyond belief. Large displacement cruisers and sportbikes are rare; generally the domain of the wealthy, but you will encounter dirt bikes with riders fully outfitted in protective gear.
Cars and SUVs: Cars are generally small and fuel efficient, ranging from brand new to “crop duster:” the smoke belching, salvage yard mishmash of rolling parts. But no matter the condition, the only thing guaranteed to work is the horn. Functioning brake lights and blinkers are almost not existent and you’re lucky if old fashioned hand signals are used in signaling one’s intent.
New SUVs are a status symbol and seem to be everywhere. They are the equivalent of the mini-van piloted by the multi-tasking soccer mom, texting, applying makeup and dispensing fast food to the rowdy kids in the back seat, who’s to be avoided when possible.
Trucks and Buses: There must be a law that requires the ubiquitous small Daihatsu flatbed diesel trucks to have a 6 ton bag of rice overload with 5 workers perched on top and to never exceed 10 miles per hour while belching enough smoke to hide a fleet of WWII warships. The inverse is also true: the empty Daihatsu diesel rocketing along at 60 mph rushing for the next load for delivery.
Large tour buses prevail as the Alpha vehicles in the DR with their drivers being most aggressive simply because they are the biggest road monster out there.
Container trucks and 18-wheelers are mainly confined to the major roads, but don’t be surprised to see them weaving through urban traffic. They do not care if you exist.
The Private Transportation System
A thriving private transportation system exists in the large cities as well as in the countryside of the DR which is highly evolved, entrepreneurial in nature and very cost-effective for the meager resources of the average Dominican. Three types are involved: the moto concho, the concho and the guagua.
The Moto Concho: Along side the road under a tree or a make-shift garage, you will see a collection of motos and their riders seemingly just hanging out. They aren’t; they are waiting for fares. The moto concho is a motorcycle taxi, taking a passenger(s) from one place to another for a few pesos. They hug the right side of the road and understand that they need to use caution as they ride. They tend to be very aware of their surroundings, use hand signals and look behind them before they make any turns.
It is rare to see a moto with rearview mirrors.
They are very keen on holding their “line.” They do not ride down the middle of the road, staying to the right, knowing full well that larger, faster moving vehicles will pass on the left, sometimes in close proximity. The moto concho drivers seem to have spectacular hearing as they can hear the quiet exhaust note of the V-Strom from greater than 40 feet as we approach. It’s common to get a glace back when approaching.
The Car Concho: The weapon of choice of these route taxis is an innocent but condemned-for-life Toyota Corolla, destined to end its days packed with people and a 1000 watt amplifier blaring meringue, bachata and reggatone tunes. They are slower than private cars as they look for fares along their route. The threat they pose is the sudden stop to let off a fare, and the quick re-entry into the traffic, without warning, after picking up a fare. Forget about brake lights and turn signals. Licensed for a particular route, stickers on the drivers’ doors and/or back windows indicate which route.
The Guagua : Driving routes between smaller towns and cities, guaguas are often 9-passenger Nissan, Hyundai, Mitsubishi or Toyota people-movers frequently missing side doors and may have a doorman that collects the fares and signals how many seats are available for potential clients. Like conchos, watch for quick stops as they pick up and let off fares. Normally courteous of traffic behind them, we have experienced the “I’m bigger than you so I own the road” attitude with some drivers.
Guagua Station in Jarabacoa
Looking for a Fare
The Tour Bus: Two large, established companies, Caribe Tours and Metro, dominate this segment of the system, using large, modern and luxurious 55+ seat motor coaches and traveling on a regular schedule between specific terminals in the larger cities. They travel the main highways and tend to stick to their appointed schedule…no matter what. Don’t get in their way.
How the System Works: The typical Dominican utilizing the system would take a moto concho from his barrio, to a street on a concho route, to a larger street or highway with guagua stops, to another town, to a concho stop, to a moto concho stop, to their final destination. A variation may be a stop at a Metro or Caribe Tour terminal.
There are also limousine services and taxi companies, who operate on a fee-for-service based on time and distance.
*The Basic Riding Dynamics*
Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.
-Dorothy
You need to have a complete disregard for the localized traffic rules that you love and understand from home. Rules exist in the DR, but they are different. Accept that premise and realize that it will take some time for you to acclimate to the new dynamics, the sooner the better. We have found it takes the average rider about 4 hours until they begin to reach a comfort level with the new rules. We aren’t talking about legalities or rights or wrongs here. We are talking about the unspoken realities and how they relate to your safety. Remember: You are a new species in a very established ecosystem.
Size Matters: The bigger the vehicle the more it has the implied Right of Way. Embrace this dynamic because it ain’t never gonna change, Sparky. Never assume that that bus or SUV coming at you is going to get out of your way. That’s your job.
Right Rut: The center of the road is the most dangerous place to be on a motorcycle. The right rut is the safest place to be, since the dangerous threats come from two places:
1. Someone coming directly at you crossing the center line while passing a slower vehicle or avoiding a pothole. This happens quite frequently, two lane roads in the DR being the norm but often driven by Dominican drivers as if they were three lanes.
~and~
2. Someone overtaking you and you don’t see or hear them. Any movement out of the right rut should always be preceded by a solid visual and aural assessment of what is directly behind you.
!A Special Note!: When approaching a blind uphill turn on a mountain road, exercise special caution. Staying in the right rut and beeping twice is mandatory. Dominican drivers know the roads very well and are likely to carry speed down those hills, passing trucks and slower vehicles that commonly use engine compression to save their brakes. They could be over the center line coming downhill. Having your bike near the center line is a sure recipe for disaster.
The right rut is especially important going up steep hills. You’ll see many overloaded trucks belching smoke and oil onto the road as they labor mightily. Their engines are under considerable pressure, resulting in a spray of some nice, fresh oil on the center of the lane. Unless your bike has special “oil tread” tires…and I’ve yet to see them…stay away from the oily center rut as much as possible.
Use Your Horn! Using your horn to let other drivers know your intentions is as standard as using your turn signals. The norm is two beeps before you pass someone and approaching a blind curve.
You Will Get Passed, So Let Them By: If you’re thinking about blocking that SUV wanting to pass you, even when traffic is tight, and you think you have the Right of Way, think again. That SUV will pass you, even if it means forcing you off the road. Never, ever challenge it.
Passing Slower Vehicles: You will be passing slower vehicles on a regular basis and there are virtually no rules. Caution is all that matters. Always check behind you before maneuvering into a position to pass. Dominicans will pass multiple vehicles at a time and yours may be one of those when he’s behind you. Then check the road ahead to determine what is approaching you, put the blinker on, use a hand signal and beep, quickly get around the vehicle and back into the right rut. The key is staying off the center line as much as possible.
Ride In the “Bubble:” This is the common practice of positioning yourself in traffic in clear space. There is no one close on your rear nor are you on someone else’s rear. This means getting past slower traffic when necessary and letting faster traffic pass you. On a big motorcycle you are traveling faster than motos and most trucks, and sometimes slower than cars, so this is a very natural state of operation. Always give yourself space.
Group Riding Single File: With few exceptions, single file is always the best option for group riding. It gives all riders maximum road to react and avoid road hazards and other traffic. Adhering to the “2 second rule” between the bikes is not just important but should be mandatory, as it allows riders to have time to react safely to hazards. Staggered group riding should not be used, because no rider should be near the center line where it would limit his ability to avoid road hazards. Hand signals should always be used and passed back, lead rider to tail gunner, with lead rider reinforcing these continuously. “Lost Man” procedures should be implemented in the event a problem occurs that splits the group.
In the rare occurrence of having to stop for a red light, an exception to the single file rule should be made by riders splitting the lane side-by-side to keep the group together. Left in single file, motos would bunch in and all around the column, creating all manner of havoc and confusion. When the light changes, proceed in a single line.
Leaving Rancho La Cumbre, Single File
Road Hazards
Well trained reflexes are better than luck
~Author Unknown
Safe motorcycling in a beautiful but developing country requires the rider to quickly gain some special awareness skills of common road hazards as well. Here are some routinely encountered in the DR and how to mitigate their danger.
Drainage Systems: Outside of the major cities, no storm water drainage system handles the rain run off. This means that there will be gutters along side the road, gutters in the median between the roads, and gaps in concrete where the street meets the sidewalk. Always be planning ahead about where and how you will stop safely. Nothing is more embarrassing than a zero mph drop dismount, because there was no place to put your foot or kickstand. Additionally, those deep ruts and ditches can play havoc with your tires, so if necessary, approach them head on and not at an angle.
It’s worth mentioning again that many roads have wide and deep drainage ditches inches off the road. Very nasty to get into, so exercise caution as you near the shoulder of the road.
Drainage Ditch
Danger – Tile! Beautiful floor tile is used frequently on drives and sidewalks in Dominican architecture. Unfortunately, form often trumps function and it is rarely non-slip. A treat for the eyes, like ice when slightly damp; ice and motorcycles don’t mix well. Not fun. The driveway at Camp Moto in the DR is tiled and has a nice slope to it. Gorgeous to look at, but even light dew makes walking on it hazardous. Exercise extreme caution when approaching or on it, both feet down, ready to break a skid.
Dominican Red Mud: This stuff is very slippery wet clay and well outside the capabilities of most cruiser tires. Even the V-Strom dual-sport tires are squirrely on it. Red clay is commonly seen on secondary roads that are under construction. Again, exercise prudent caution, as you can go down in an instant.
Rockslides and Wash Outs: Mother Nature is constantly campaigning to reclaim the DR, especially in the rugged mountains and river beds. Rain and steep rocky cliffs conspire to jettison rocks across some of the roads. Since the locals generally clear the rocks off the roads almost immediately, this isn’t ordinarily a big issue. But don’t be caught by surprise by an encounter with several small…or large…boulders strewn across the road. Be aware when in those environments.
Washouts are very common in the DR. In a nutshell, the road may just be gone, vanished or fallen away. There are few stronger “pucker factors” than rounding a blind inside mountain curve and suddenly be looking straight down 200 feet, just 12 inches from a side washout, almost always due to water erosion after heavy storms. Trust us on this one! So be aware of rivers, creeks and wherever Mother Nature may think would be a good place for a sudden evacuation of torrents of water. Exercise caution in areas where you cannot see the whole road ahead.
Rockslide Recently Cleared near Manabao
What Appears to be a Normal Curve…
Can Quickly Turn Unforgiving!
Potholes: North American potholes are to Dominican potholes what a Vespa is to a Hyabusa: no comparison. You will encounter stretches of perfect tarmac for miles that will instantly turn into a Shock and Awe battlefield. Any road surface color change indicates a pothole. Never assume that the pothole is shallow as you may encounter several conchos on the way to the bottom.
Threading through them is always the best policy. An effective strategy is to pay attention to the traffic well in front of you. Car drivers generally will avoid suspension damage by utilizing the entire road, when possible, to avoid the potholes, and moto drivers will show the best line through them. But, beware: you can also expect this pothole avoidance tactic from oncoming traffic. Right rut, right?
It is classic Dominican to put a large tree branch in a bad pothole.
Fresh Pothole
Gravel: Gravel isn’t very common, but where there are cattle crossings, mud and stones do get tracked on the road. The good news? The gravel coated turn is uncommon, except in rockslide areas.
Oiled Road Center: Since cars and trucks are forever spewing oil onto the roads, just stay off the center rut as much as possible. It’s worth mentioning again: particular attention needs to be paid in the mountains where the center rut is not black because there is more traction there.
Manholes: With world prices for scrap metal at record highs, metal theft has become a problem in many countries, including the DR and their manhole covers. Big cities like Santiago, Santo Domingo and Puerto Plata may simply have open manholes because the covers were stolen. At high speed this may only mean a bent rim and an “Oh spit!” moment. But at slower speeds, this could spell disaster when your front wheel stops and you don’t. Watch out for/avoid manholes.
Construction: Road construction is a constant in the DR, with rarely any advanced warning that one-lane traffic is ahead. It may be just a simple orange safety cone 30 feet before the construction site. One favorite road construction site had no cone, but instead a tree branch to point the traffic away from the hazard! And be forewarned: Dominicans are notorious rubber-neckers.
Activity on the Side of the Road: Businesses carry on their activity literally within 6 feet of the roadway in many places. Children and adults run in and out of their houses the same few feet from the road, complete with chairs in front. They walk, run and play along the side or in the road, acutely aware of where they are. No doubt everyone knows a person that had an unfortunate incident with a moving vehicle because of this close proximity and this doesn’t allow much room for rider error. A rider simply needs to be more aware of his surroundings and ride with good control.
A higher risk occurs at night, when partiers, numbed by alcohol and loud music, might stagger onto the road in front of a bar or colmado, one of the many small neighborhood food and dry good stores that also serves clod alcohol and tend to be local hang-outs. Watch your speed, and be ready for a sudden stop. The best strategy is not to ride at night unless absolutely necessary.
“Lions and Tigers and Bears, Oh My!:” Just as there are people on and by the roadway, so there are animals. Dogs, cats, chickens, goats, pigs, cows and horses are common roadside sights especially in the more rural areas. Roadside Darwinism is alive and well here with the ones that don’t understand the dangers of the road not living long enough to breed. Although it’s clear that small animals are extremely aware of vehicles and rarely dart onto the road in front of traffic, you will see those who won’t make breeding age as road kill. A cattle crossing isn’t unusual nor are cowpokes on motos escorting them along or across the road. Just be aware, and with a couple beeps of your horn, the critters will usually scatter out of the way. In the wise words of lead rider Ed, “Only hit an animal if it’s small enough to wear as a hat.” Otherwise, steer clear and use your horn.
Exercise Caution in the Presence of Wildlife: Keep Your Eyes on the Road!
*The Good Stuff*
Only a biker would understand why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
~Anonymous
There is a reason why we ride in the Dominican Republic: few places on the planet offer the sensory experience as this incredible island. Where else on earth can you ride and discover such geographic diversity with its nearly 1000 miles of beaches, tropical mountains over 10,000’, one of the most fertile valleys on earth, and its own desert with a salt lake 140’ below sea level? Where in the hemisphere can you find history that literally goes back to Columbus? Where can you find the mix of cultural delights with spectacular food, drink, music…and baseball? Where can you find such warm, smiling, genuinely friendly people? The answer: it’s a very short list.
Certainly, the riding is unparalleled. But there are some additional reason why the DR is a great, safe place to ride:
Again, the Dominican Republic is a Motorcycle Culture. Because there are over a million motos in the country, motorcycles are the main form of transportation for most of the population, and everyone not riding a motorcycle is inherently aware of all of those motorcycles. There is no distracted mini-van driving soccer mom that doesn’t see you.
Not Many Side Streets: With most of the non-urban side roads unpaved with the grade difference of several inches so often between the side road and the paved road, and not wanting to rip the suspension off the bottom of their vehicle, cars simply do not pull out in front of you very fast. They take their time entering the paved road from a side road. This paved-primary/hard-packed secondary system is so very refreshing, minimizing the threat of vehicles pulling out in front of you. It’s one of our favorite riding dynamics of the DR; threats from side are almost non-existant.
Typical Paved Street to Paved Street Intersection: Notice the Difference in Grade
Typical Dirt Road to Paved Road Intersection
You are Totally Unique: In the land of 50-150cc bikes, a big motorcycle is king. When you’re geared up on a V-Strom, you routinely get saluted by people thinking you are military Special Forces who ride newer Honda Transalps, a very similar bike to the V-Strom. Heads bob when you’re seen and school kids rush the playground fences to wave enthusiastically as you pass. People love the big bikes and love that you are touring the country they love so much. When you stop for gas or munchies, kids come out of the woodwork to see and touch the bike. Take their picture sitting on one, and you’re their hero. The seas part in front of you when you ride, the beautiful women smile and flirt, and the men covet the bike and wish they were you. Being on a big bike all geared up in the DR is total Rock Star status.
The Shoeshine and Peanut Roaster Kids Know Us at Samana Harbor
*How Does MotoCaribe Do It?*
If you want to see, hear, feel, and taste the Dominican Republic, this is your wildest dream come true. Forget the boring Americanized vacation to a resort, looking at the same beach all week and talking to someone from your hometown. THIS is the full Dominican riding experience. The rice paddies, pineapple plantations, coconut groves, crashing ocean waves and high mountain vistas–that is what you will get. Smiling faces, kids in school uniforms waving and shouting “Hola!”…Native tour guides who know where to go and how to get there–that is what you will get. A face that hurts from smiling all day– Take my word for it, this is a trip that is NOT to be missed!”
RoadStarGirl – Boston MA, MotoCaribe Alumnus, Class of April ‘08
When MotoCaribe was just a concept, we sat down and outlined exactly what would make our guests have the riding experience of a lifetime. We knew the Dominican Republic, the tropical treasures of the hemisphere, would be the perfect place for an unmatched Caribbean riding adventure. But there had to be more than just the location. That is just one part of the total experience. We had to insure that our guests would be safe and comfortable, have great fun, and yet safely challenge their skills.
After exhaustive research and discussion, we finally boiled the parameters of “safe, comfortable and challenging” down to four distinct elements: the Home Base, the routes, the bikes and the preparation.
The Home Base: This was the single most important phase of our planning.
The Dominican Republic, the size of Vermont and New Hampshire combined with a population of 9,760,000 is blessed with nearly 1,000 miles of coastline, and three major mountain ranges, one with the highest point in the Caribbean: Pico Duarte at over 10,000 ft. For a country of its size, the number and diversity of natural wonders is enormous.
There are three major population centers: Santo Domingo (pop. 2.8 million), Santiago de los Caballeros (pop. 950, 000) and Puerto Plata (pop. 490,000), not large geographically, but highly urban. That means intense urban traffic, far beyond what the average North American can conceive, and a degree of urban congestion not unlike large North American cities. Our guest Craig Coleman describes the cities as “total vehicular anarchy,” and Robert and Ed agree that Craig has nailed it.
Outside the urban areas, the scenery and culture is entirely different. Life is much slower, the roads are fairly good, the beaches gorgeous, the mountains cool and clean, and the people friendly, unassuming and gregarious.
Our first decision was where to base our company. We knew we didn’t want to base in a tourist area wanting our riders to have an authentic Dominican experience outside an all-inclusive enclave where drinks are with umbrellas by an English speaking waiter with a name tag on his uniform. We didn’t want to base in a large urban center since they suffer from the same problems North American urban centers do: congested, loud, complex, not particular safe or enjoyable to ride, and parts not all that beautiful. Our needs included good access to a well-served, centrally located international airport, so all tours could start and finish easily, giving our guests the most solid, enjoyable riding time possible.
Just 35 minutes from Santiago International Airport (STI) served by Delta, American and Jet Blue, the town of Jarabacoa fit all our criteria. Pronounced “hah-dah-bah-COH-ah”, this pristine town of 70,000 is at 1800’ ASL in the Cordillera Central mountain range. Called “God’s Hammock” by the locals (“God is everywhere, but he sleeps in Jarabacoa”), Jarabacoa is where many prominent Dominicans and politicos maintain weekend and vacation homes, a respite 7-9 degrees cooler year round than much of the rest of the country. It’s also an awesome place to ride because of the phenomenal mountain roads and vistas in every direction. Additionally, our guests would have the pleasure of experiencing stays at two of the most outstanding Dominican-style resorts on the island.
We found an excellent location to set up shop, and chose to put down our stakes in Jarabacoa. This has proven to be a very wise choice. “Camp Moto” is known all over town now.
The Routes: We chose our tour routes before we chose bikes, because we knew the routes would determine what kind of bikes would best fit our needs.
One basic fundamental criterion for our route selection: under no circumstance short of dire emergency and road closure would we ride through or into any major cities. This single criterion is for safety, since riding in the rural areas of the Dominican Republic is very unlike riding in the city, a totally different experience. There is no need to compromise safety or riding enjoyment for guests not acclimated to the chaos of urban Dominican traffic. One seasoned Dominican world-traveler friend describes Santo Domingo traffic as worse than Hong Kong, Beijing, or Tokyo. We wouldn’t disagree, even though we’ve never been to the Far East. He lives in Santo Domingo and has been to all three.
Another factor in our decision was completely out of our hands regardless of what arguments we presented insurance company underwriting executives: we would be unable to offer guests a rental bike only, because no insurance company in the country would offer any type of coverage of any kind for the bikes unless they were always within a group under the supervision of a MotoCaribe employee. The tours would have to be guided and the bikes kept together. There could be no “here’s a map, y’all take off and we’ll meet up later.” Period.
The routes had to have a mix of geography, scenery, superior accommodations and road conditions. Otherwise it would just be Kansas. Seasonal weather patterns were another factor determining what time of year routes would be taken. Being uncomfortable due to weather distracts a rider from paying close attention to his environment by focusing internally instead of externally, decreasing rider safety and enjoyment. Having a climate very similar to tropical Honolulu’s year-round mild trade winds, moderate temperatures and rainfall, we knew the weather in the Dominican Republic would cause few safety concerns. The DR tends to be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer compared to the States, leading to a positive all-seasons riding environment. It is never too hot, too cold or too wet no matter what season a guest chooses. Two exceptions would be the Samana Peninsula which receives more rain in the winter months necessitating good rain gear and wet riding skills, and the desert Southwest which is significantly hotter and dryer in the Summer requiring more attention to hydration and cooler riding gear. So we decided to minimize the impact on weather and minimize riding in those areas during their weather off-season.
We chose routes for two one-week tours that would give the returning rider, in total, a full geographic, cultural and riding experience of this amazing location. These are:
1) The Tropical Northeast tour that includes crossing the Cordillera Septentrional Mountains on a road we call “the Tail of the Iguana” (272 curves and switchbacks, 21 miles, two 2500 foot elevation changes, and spectacular vistas everywhere), riding the North Shore coastal highway to the beautiful and ruggedly primitive Samana Peninsula.
Lunch at Playa Rincon: Grilled Fresh Lobster and Kabobs…Mmmmmm
2) The Desert Southwest tour that includes a riding around the below sea level salt lake Lago Enriquillo, riding the spectacular southwest coastal highway from Barahona to Oviedo, a ride to the Haitian “frontier” border, and a visit to the unspoiled beach at Bahia de Las Aguilas.
View of Lago Enriquillo from Cuevas Las Canas
We firmed up the routes and determined them to be approximately 80% tarmac and 20% hard pack with a few odd percent of dirt and hard sand mixed in. We also contracted with some amazing truly authentic Dominican resorts that don’t treat our riders like numbered sheep in a pen, but as treasured long lost friends, ready with warm smiles, cold beverages, hot Dominican cuisine and comfortable beds.
We have found these routes to be a great success for our guests, based on their enthusiastic reviews.
The Bikes: Having established the 80/20 criteria, we contemplated a wide array of different types of motorcycles from 1435cc cruisers to true enduro bikes. Besides being the right bike for the selected roads, additional selection criteria were initial cost, operating costs, maintenance history and costs, availability of parts, factory and dealer support, ergonomics, and performance. We went through lists of dozens of makes and models, force-ranking and scoring each on a matrix, test riding the finalists.
The 2008 Suzuki V-Strom 650 finished near the top of every category we chose. Simply put, it is the right tool for the job. The V-Strom does everything well considering the riding conditions in the Dominican Republic: a standard upright riding position, a bullet proof motor that offers plenty of power, a suspension that absorbs bad roads, sportbike-like handling on the twisties, the ability to handle two-up comfortably, and all in a package that weighs less than 450 pounds and delivers 55 mpg.
Additionally, the V-Strom has devout owner groups with great detailed knowledge bases online. Most riders who have spent time on one will agree that it is arguably one of the best all-around motorcycles available today: the Swiss Army Knife of motorcycles, a utilitarian favorite.
We sought the exclusive Suzuki importer in the Dominican Republic, sat down with their sales manager Jose and ordered 11 bikes to be built in the Suzuki plant in Colombia. Three months later the bikes arrived, Jose honored us with his presence and humor on the MotoCaribe Virgin Tour, and became a great friend.
To bolster an already outstanding machine, we’ve added Givi engine guards, swing arm frame sliders, fender expenders, tail bags and grip puppies. The stock Bridgestone Trail Wings offer great wet condition grip and are more than sufficient for the tarmac and secondary hard packed roads. Loose sand and mud exceed the tread design of Trail Wings and therefore we do our best to avoid those conditions.
We now have over 60,000 miles on our fleet of 11. With very few exceptions, the bikes have performed flawlessly and have been met with great post-ride enthusiasm by guests, most of who had never been exposed to a V-Strom. Beside accident-free experiences, the best evidence that the correct bike decision was made is that guests have return home and purchased a V-Strom of their own.
A fine decision indeed.
MotoCaribe 2008 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
The Preparation: We broke “preparation” into several categories: pre-tour support, tour orientation and on-tour support. All were crucial to a safe, enjoyable, trouble-free experience.
1. Pre-Tour Support: When we receive an inquiry about a tour, we dedicate ourselves in answering every question a potential guest may have, in as clear terms as possible, utilizing whatever electronic means the guest has at his disposal. Often it means explaining about the Dominican culture, travel requirements and what their experience would be. Questions from our potential guests helped us create one of the most exhaustive FAQs in the industry we know of. If a potential guest has a question that is not in the FAQs, it will be soon.
After committing to a tour, we make sure that the guests’ trip preparation is thorough. We offer an abundance of third-party and MotoCaribe resources to insure that the guest will arrive well prepared and equipped for his adventure. We leave little to chance, right down to understanding possible health concerns and food requirements.
When the guest arrives at the airport, a MotoCaribe associate personally meets him and checks him into the resort hotel. Because of the prior frequent communications, it’s like picking up an old friend.
2. Tour Orientation: After breakfast on Day 1, we conduct a thorough multi-media orientation on how the week will unfold, about riding in the Dominican Republic in general and how we will be riding in a group. Safety is emphasized repeatedly. We exchange some currency so guests have some pocket change for souvenirs.
We head to Camp Moto where they meet their steed for the week. An in-service tour of the bike is made and we do some simple riding for the guests to get accustomed to the bike in an easy setting. At this time, adjustments are made to each bike to fit the rider needs: levers, seat height, shifter and rear brake and windshield. A bike that fits a rider comfortably makes for a safer ride.
We spend the day riding around Jarabacoa, a challenging but friendly environment. The goal is to make sure the riders are comfortable on their bike and that they have become acclimated to the traffic and riding conditions before heading out across the country.
3. On-Tour Support: We knew that there would be sparse physical support for the bikes and riders’ needs while on tour in the Dominican Republic. But support was necessary. So we planned on doing it ourselves in a total self-contained manner.
Being self-contained meant bringing along a virtual mechanic shop, complete with full tools and spare parts. The equipment has to work properly to be safe and that is the prime objective. But how much fun could a rider have if his bike breaks down, even for a flat or other fairly minor occurrence? Not much and it would slow down the group. So we chose to always bring a spare bike.
Besides tools and spares, we wanted to bring other support equipment: battery/inverter system, electric winch, air compressor and portable tank, battery charger, cleaners and lubes, etc. All this takes up space.
Safety doesn’t just stop with riding. It also includes not riding when the rider doesn’t want to or feel like it. So we had to make provisions for that eventuality and have to have room for an additional bike to store on the road.
And then there are the beach accoutrements: beach chairs, shade tents, beach toys, etc.
Safety also extends to nutrition. We stress proper hydration and nutrition, bringing along a large supply of bottled water, Gatorade, canned fruit juices, soft drinks, energy drinks, dried and fresh fruit, several varieties of energy bars, individual packs of cookies and crackers, chips and even beef jerky. We stop every hour or so for a rest and drink.
One hard and fast rule to which MotoCaribe will ALWAYS adhere: one drop of alcohol and no more riding for the day. Period.
A bike or two, tools, spares, supplies, coolers and containers of food, beach toys, full luggage for up to 15, etc. all take up a lot of volume and has to be moved around with the tour. For that reason we chose a heavy duty 15 passenger Ford E350 van and a dual-axel 14’ utility trailer with a ramp as the support vehicles which are never more that 10 minutes, at most, behind the riders. On a few occasions, we’ve loaded a rider’s bike into the trailer, and the rider rode along in the van.
The MotoCaribe Rolling Resort
Not feeling quite right can affect safety and certainly there are calamities that can befall a traveler in a foreign land. Sometimes food, water, insects and other maladies can strike, not to mention the inherent risks of riding a motorcycle. And when you feel poorly, your safety margin collapses. For that reason we have a Medical Director on staff, available 24/7 while on tour, should the services of a physician be required. And if the need is immediate, we are equipped with a state of the art first aid kit, supplies and serious medication. Additionally, wherever we are on tour, we always know where the nearest medical facility is located and the Medical Director will call that facility in advance should we need it.
The level of the tour support we provide is done to meet virtually any need the riders have, offering them the tools necessary for them to be as safe as they can possibly be.
*So What Does It All Mean?*
Sometimes the fastest way to get there is to stop for the night.
~Unknown
Remember the guy at the gas station with the Warpspeed 1200 and how he was aghast about the safety of riding in the Dominican Republic? His reaction reminds us of the John Godfrey Saxe poem about The Blind Men and the Elephant. Six blind men described an elephant based on the single part of the beast he touched, and none of them actually described the elephant. We’ve heard riding motorcycles in the DR described in many ways, usually in a negative manner, and never correctly based on our broad and deep experience.
But we know from experience that in many ways riding in the DR is actually safer than in North America and Europe. Invariably, a rider comes to the DR skeptical about safety and returns with the exact opposite thought, gained through experience.
But motorcycle safety here just doesn’t happen. It’s earned. It requires understanding the risks, the environment, the motorcycle culture, the driving habits of Dominicans, good equipment, proper riding gear, a healthy dose of patience, judgment, keeping one’s cool and good execution of the plan. Certainly, riding as MotoCaribe prescribes goes above and beyond most safety parameters, but even the individual rider can stack the safety deck in his favor by listening to the voice of experience and adopting some of these basic concepts to his riding style.
The Dominican Republic is an awesome once-in-a-lifetime experience for a rider. It even goes beyond awesome when you are riding with all those safety cards in your hand.
*Who Are These Guys?*
Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.
~Author Unknown
MotoCaribe got kick-started in early 2007 with a Private Message (PM) on a motorcycle Message Board between two long-time friends: “Dude, we need to talk.”
And so the MotoCaribe recipe began to form.
The Ingredients: Two long-time entrepreneurs, both lifetime motorcycle riders and collectors. Robert Cooper, from the healthcare, aviation and hospitality industries, has traveled repeatedly to the Dominican Republic since the mid-1980s. Ed Denzler, the pioneer of residential accelerated information technology training, has the indomitable spirit of long-past adventurers. Both had recently sold entrepreneurial ventures and still had the unquenched urge to create something special.
Ed started riding on large V-Twin cruisers, became an avid long distance rider on a sport touring bike, taking the long way around and finally landed squarely on an adventure touring steed. He admits his riding is cheaper therapy than the shrink’s couch. His rides have included, among many other bikes, an ST-1300, V-Strom 650, VTX 1800R, classic Kawasaki Mach III, and several classic Honda CB750s.
Robert was unfortunately struck with the dreaded British Bike Syndrome at an early age and over the years could often be seen along Florida streets pushing home one of his bikes, post-failure of the Lucas sort. His classic bike collection over the years included, among others, classic BSA 650 Lightning and Victor 441, several Triumph Bonnevilles, a Triumph T100C Scrambler, Norton Commando 750, Royal Enfield Interceptor, Triumph T20S Tiger Cub, Honda CB350, Kawasaki Mach III and ultimately a Honda VTX1800C.
The MotoCaribe website is www.motocaribe.com.
****SIDEBAR****
*The More You Know, The Better You Are*
If you ride like there’s no tomorrow, there won’t be.
~Author Unknown
Out of the many excellent sources of motorcycle safety information, one of the best is the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (http://www.msf-usa.org/), a non-profit motorcycle safety advocacy group offering Basic RiderCourses, Experienced RiderCourses, Scooter School, and Dirt Bike School, courses covering every level of experience and bike type. As enthusiastic alumni, all MSF courses are highly recommended by us. MSF does yeoman work in advancing motorcycle safety through excellent hands-on training.
Safety is a common theme in the plethora of motorcycle enthusiast publications, websites and message boards who have a surprising degree of specialization. One of the oldest and most popular is Motorcyclist Magazine (http://www.motorcyclistonline.com). One of the best pieces their staff has ever written, 50 Ways to Save Your Life, is a canonical standard of motorcycle safety that applies wherever you ride. We recommend that the entire article be read, printed, and re-read often, as 50 Ways applies to riding anywhere and on every kind of bike.
Link to the article: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0608_50_ways/index.html
There are several points in 50 Ways to Save Your Life on which we’d like to comment that relate specifically to riding in the Dominican Republic:
1. Assume you’re invisible: Because to a lot of drivers, you are. Never make a move based on the assumption that another driver sees you, even if you’ve just made eye contact. Bikes don’t always register in the four-wheel mind.
While true everywhere, the good news is you’re seen more by other drivers in the DR than at home. The DR is a motorcycle-centric culture. There are 2.1 million registered vehicles in the DR and 1.3 million of them are motorcycles! Those 1.3 million are 50-150cc four (and, yes, those dirty two) stroke “motos,” the ever-present main form of transportation in the DR. Every Dominican knows or has a family member who owns a moto. Dominicans are raised with them. They are everywhere. As a result, they are seen by all. There is no, “I didn’t see you because you were on a motorcycle” excuse. However, one should always assume that he is invisible.
3. Dress for the crash, not the pool or the prom: Sure, Joaquin’s Fish Tacos is a 5-minute trip, but nobody plans to eat pavement. Modern mesh gear means 100-degree heat is no excuse for a T-shirt and board shorts.
Very true. Just because you see Dominicans ride in cutoffs and flip-flops, doesn’t mean they don’t have nasty road rash scars. It’s Paradise, not Para-dunce. Gear up.
5. Leave your ego at home: The only people who really care if you were faster on the freeway will be the officer and the judge.
You WILL be noticed. Bikes bigger than 250ccs are so rare you’re a virtual Rock Star. Don’t let it go to your head and interrupt your common sense and awareness. Yes, she’s pretty and he’s handsome, but pay attention! Besides, you won’t want to have to waste your vacation time in the Dominican emergency medical system.
10) Beware the verge and the merge: A lot of nasty surprises end up on the sides of the road: empty McDonald’s bags, nails, TV antennas, ladders, you name it. Watch for potentially troublesome debris on both sides of the road.
Even more important: the side of many roads in the DR drop sharply, many with 2’ deep drainage channels right off the road that would be very unforgiving if “tested.” So don’t. Additionally, it is crucial that you be aware of the many potholes. That roof of a car you see isn’t on the other side of a hill. It’s probably what is sticking out of a pothole!
11. Left-turning cars remain a leading killer of motorcyclists: Don’t assume someone will wait for you to dart through the intersection. They’re trying to beat the light, too.
That is the #1 universal hazard everywhere. It is in the DR as well. Even though you may be more visible to drivers in the DR, assume “invisibility” and exercise appropriate caution with approaching vehicles. This is especially true at night when the drinkers are out.
12. Beware of cars running traffic lights: The first few seconds after a signal light changes are the most perilous. Look both ways before barging into an intersection.
Again, a universal truth. This includes a car behind you that may be trying to get through that yellow…through you. Always be aware, keep the bike in gear and have an “out!” And that guy stopped at the light on your right? Don’t be too surprised if he makes a LEFT turn across you just as the light turns green. Never assume proper traffic behavior! It is unfortunately common for a Dominican driver to ignore the change to red. Always wait a couple of extra seconds and look all ways before proceeding.
15. Beware of tuner cars: They’re quick and their drivers tend to be aggressive. Don’t assume you’ve beaten one away from a light or outpaced it in traffic and change lanes without looking. You could end up as a Nissan hood ornament.
We’ll expand this to tuner motos. Like everywhere, young Dominicans like to hotrod their motos and are highly skilled at it. You ride what he aspires to own: a big, real motorcycle (bikes larger than 250ccs are commonly referred to as a “Harlee Davissohn” regardless of make). So he’ll show off the wide performance envelope of his Honda Super Cub 70 to you. Let him have his fun. Besides, it’s a hoot to watch these guys go screaming by at WOT…with 70ccs. Impressive.
A Dominican Tuner Moto: 18 y.o.’s are the Same the World Over
But the larger danger is the Big Shot in a new SUV. He will have little regard for you…or anyone else. He will be obnoxious and drive with low concern for anyone’s safety, often tailgating, speeding and weaving through traffic. He has no “low beam” for his headlights and doesn’t care if you are blinded by his sunblast-bright HIDs. No problem. Just stay away from him and never challenge his “right of way” authority. Let him be and just get out of his way with a wave and a smile. Never, ever challenge him by maintaining your right of way according to traffic laws.
30. Stay in your comfort zone when you’re with a group: Riding over your head is a good way to end up in the ditch. Any bunch worth riding with will have a rendezvous point where you’ll be able to link up again.
Not just in a group, but riding outside you comfort envelope anytime can have bad outcomes. Don’t push them. This isn’t the First World where road engineers spare no expense in the design and construction of the roads. Going hard into a blind curve could produce a really bad outcome when it turns into a sharply decreasing radius curve with negative camber…with a truck overloaded with rice bags stacked 15’ high trundling at 10mph and a major oil spill still wet on the pavement.
38. Wear good gear: Wear stuff that fits you and the weather. If you’re too hot or too cold or fighting with a jacket that binds across the shoulders, you’re dangerous. It’s that simple.
MotoCaribe believes in ATGATT: All The Gear All The Time. Modern technology with miracle fabrics and materials means protective motorcycle clothing is even more comfortable than those old jeans and sneakers. Good gear, boots, armored pants and jackets, gloves and helmets can be the difference between recanting a story about an embarrassing minor low-speed drop and a story about a vacation spoiled by a trip to a Dominican ER. Cloth alone is no match for pavement as it takes about 0.2 seconds to wear through to bare skin in even a slow fall. Proper padding and armor can be the difference between a bruise and a cast. Boots mean you may be able to walk without crutches for a couple of months. Helmets are mandatory…unless you don’t value your head. Modern mesh fabrics are nearly as cool as a T-Shirt. Comfort is no longer an excuse for not wearing proper riding gear.
Besides, when all geared up, you’ll look like a member of the Special Forces in the Dominican Military! Being saluted is not uncommon!
42. Flashing is good for you: Turn signals get your attention by flashing, right? So a few easy taps on the pedal or lever before stopping makes your brake light more eye-catching to trailing traffic.
And not just the flashing of brake lights and high beams, but the liberal use of your horn as well. With slower moto traffic everywhere, it’s wise to give a quick beep of your horn while overtaking them and entering blind corners. Dominicans understand horns and there is even an unwritten code to interpret the different honks. A moto or car may be ready for the salvage yard with parts hanging off with string and tailpipe smoking for mosquitoes, but the horn ALWAYS works.
One safety feature build into modern motorcycles like the V-Stroms is the headlights are always on when the ignition is on. That is just another means to heighten awareness of you in traffic, even though you’ll be the only vehicle on the road in the daylight with headlights on. You’ll have oncoming cars flashing their headlights on and off at your anomaly, like you forget they were on. Obviously you’ve been seen, the very point of having your headlights on all the time. For more information go to www.motocaribe.com
